Why I Stopped Using Hair Dyes With Ammonia

Hair colouring forms an essential part of our beauty regimen nowadays. There have been so many changing trends and developments in the hair colouring industry over the years. One major trend that changed the way I looked at hair colouring was going chemical-free.

I had a general idea that hair dyes typically use many chemicals in their formulas to achieve long-lasting colours. It was only a few years back that I started noticing many friends and family members of mine being increasingly conscious of the ingredients present in the colourants. I even noticed many articles and voices being raised in opinion forums about the presence of chemicals in hair dyes and its ill-effects.

This mention and demand for chemical-free products brought about a change in my buying habits. I tried out different hair dye brands and until I finally narrowed it down to a good and safe hair colour that works best for me.

While there are many chemicals in a hair dye formula, let me focus on one main ingredient that is well-known — Ammonia. I’ll take you through the science behind how ammonia and ammonia-free hair colours work. It will help you understand and narrow down your choices when it comes to hair care.

Photo by Antonio Gabola on Unsplash

Ammonia and its role in hair colours

Ammonia is a chemical agent that provides alkalinity required for hair dye formulas. It is usually accompanied by a strong odour. It helps in raising the pH of the hair when the colourants start working.

Ammonia in hair dyes helps in expanding and opening up the hair cuticles, which is the outer layer of our hair. It allows for better penetration of the hair dye inside the hair shaft and be deposited evenly on the cortex, which is the inner layer of our hair. This results in higher absorption of the hair colour and therefore, a deeper and more permanent colour for our hair. Such ammonia-based hair dyes are usually termed as permanent hair dyes.

Hair dyes also contain peroxide which is another chemical agent. The presence of ammonia aids in improving the action of this peroxide. When combined, both these chemicals help in lightening the melanin, which gives us our natural hair colour.

Allergic reactions caused by ammonia

Being an external chemical, ammonia can cause certain allergic reactions in the human body. As per the U.S. Centers for Disease Control and Prevention (CDC), below are some of the broad effects in people:

• Itching and burning sensations in the scalp
• Irritation or burns in the skin
• Itching of the eyes and watery eyes
• Irritation of the nose and throat
• Difficulty in breathing and respiratory problems

So, frequent and continuous usage of ammonia-based hair dyes can be damaging to our hair. All this isn’t mentioned to us when we use ammonia-based hair colours. It is only after we are left with unhealthy hair as a result of being exposed to this chemical do we come to our senses and regret the whole thing. I was one such person.

The lesson I learnt was, as consumers, we have to think twice before choosing any product that has ammonia in it. The dermatologist I consult even mentioned that it is advisable to get a patch test done before using ammonia-based hair colours.

Ammonia-free products

When it comes to ammonia-free hair colours, we tend to hesitate because we assume that the results will be ineffective and very short-lived. This is not true and, believe me, there are some products available that are safe as well as give us the results we expect.

Substitutes of ammonia and its safety

The ammonia-free hair colour products usually contain replacements to ammonia that have similar properties in terms of providing alkalinity. The most commonly used alternatives are monoethanolamine (MEA) and aminomethyl propanol (AMP).

The difference between MEA or AMP and ammonia is that they come in liquid form, while ammonia is a gas. Also, these substitutes are not harsh or rough when penetrating the cortex and have lesser harmful chemical properties when compared to ammonia.

Another point we have to note is that MEA and AMP don’t work on their own. They have to be mixed with alcohol to bring out its full effect. This combination ensures that the resulting hair colour stays for a longer time and has a vibrant finish.

These ammonia-free or ammonia-substitute hair colours deliver similar results as ammonia-based hair dyes while also ensuring safety. Many people I know, who are frequent users of hair colours, prefer this to ammonia-based hair dyes also due to its subtle odour.

Benefits of using ammonia-free hair colours

To sum up, these are the advantages of using ammonia-free hair dyes:

• Ammonia-free hair dyes don’t irritate the scalp and are less harmful
• We end up with softer and shinier hair even after colouring
• The hair will be well-nourished and vibrant once coloured
• People’s (users and stylists) exposure to harmful products will be reduced with the increasing ammonia-free product range and the current procedures
• All of us can safely dye our hair without second thoughts
• Using ammonia-free hair products is comparatively better and safe for us and our hair in the long run

My tips and recommendation

After all my bad experiences, I found the ultimate guide to choosing the perfect hair colour that will be a blend of efficiency and safety.

These are certain points that I followed to find me the perfect hair colour product. You can give it a try too:

• First things first, do your homework and find a good, safe, branded, ammonia-free hair colour that will protect your hair, restore its life and longevity
• Opt for a pH-balanced shampoo and conditioner that is specific for coloured hair
• You also have the option to take natural and organic hair supplements to make sure that your hair is healthy and stable
• Additionally, please ensure to use a scarf or a hat after using ammonia-free hair colour to protect your hair from the sun’s harmful UV rays

I understood that safe hair colours should be free of ammonia, PPD and parabens and ensure that it colours as well as enriches the hair.

The way forward

If most of us shift our base to using dependable hair products, the category of ammonia-free and chemical-free hair colours are bound to grow rapidly in the market. Our experience of colouring the hair using these products will also change for the better.

I feel that this line of business is a must for consumers. We have a right to demand high-quality non-toxic products. There are few brands which are working on creating chemical-free hair colours that also offer enough hydration and strength to the hair.

Let’s opt for ammonia-free hair dyes and colour away confidently without worries!