The Truth Behind This Chemical In Your Hair Dye Will Shock You
The business of hair dyeing is quite a flourishing one. Not many of us are aware of this. Hair colouring has become such an intricate part of our lives. There is always a continuous demand for hair dyes by people to cover their greys and dazzle their circle with some vibrant hair colours.
According to a recent report, the oxidative hair colourant market is expected to reach 33300 million USD by the end of 2025. This is an 8.3% CAGR growth prediction.
Hair colouring as a business started in the 1800s. Since then, hair colour products are highly dependent on two main chemicals — paraphenylenediamine (PPD) and para toluene diamine (PTD).
In this story, I will detail all that there is to these chemicals and how we can benefit from avoiding them.
So, what is PPD?
PPD is a chemical component that is widely used in permanent and, at times in, semi-permanent hair dyes as an oxidative agent. Though it is a well-known chemical, cosmetics directives worldwide consider it a permissible ingredient in hair dyes.
But, it is accompanied by a set of safety instructions that have to be followed (which is good). Using PPD in hair dyes and otherwise is strictly regulated. There is a cap on the maximum amount of PPD any product can contain. It is a must for brands to clearly print the usage instructions and specific label warnings informing consumers about the presence of PPD in the product.
PPD’s uses across industries
Being quite efficient, PPD ensures that the hair gains a lovely dark tone when dyes are applied. It helps conceal the grey hairs in a lasting manner and gives the user a natural look.
Hair dye brands have been using PPD for centuries now with success. It is therefore considered an absolute necessity for hair colours, particularly the shades with a darker tint. It is a well-tried and tested way to achieve a vibrant look with coloured hair.
Apart from hair dyes, PPD is found and used in temporary tattoos, also called black henna tattoos (which are very dangerous). PPD is also used by businesses that deal with textile and fur dyes, printing inks, photographic development, black rubber, oil and grease.
Does PPD do you any good?
While many use hair dyes without facing any allergic reactions, around 0.1% of the population globally develop an allergy after using hair colourants.
This allergy is mainly due to the high chemical presence in hair dyes. PPD and PTD are part of the ingredients that cause such allergies. They are well-known allergens and irritants in the world. Even though they are widely used, they can, at times, initiate adverse reactions in people.
It is because of the high presence of PPD that black henna tattoos are considered dangerous and should be avoided. Henna is generally red-orange. Black hennas are made by adding in a large amount of PPD to henna, which makes the resultant mixture toxic. This could lead to a life-threatening allergic reaction and test your immunity levels severely.
In extreme cases, even hairdressers develop dermatitis on their hands, arms and chest, because of working with PPD filled hair dyes regularly.
It is best for people allergic to PPD to use hair extensions and wigs that have been previously dyed with PPD or PTD than apply the hair product straight to the hair. This way is safe and won’t harm them.
As users of these harmful chemicals in our hair dyes, we need to understand the potential side effects of the product that we use on our hair or skin.
You know you’ve got a PPD allergy when…
A PPD irritation or allergy starts immediately or within 48 hours of the exposure. If you are allergic to PPD, you will notice the following warning signs after being exposed to it.
- It usually starts as a mild irritation. It will later increase and activate a series of other reactions in your body that will last longer.
- The initial stage of the allergy involves some irritation, visible inflammation, redness and a burning sensation in your scalp, hairline, neck, face, ears, eyelids, etc.
- If you are really allergic, then this will increase further and lead to itchiness and swelling that will develop in a few hours or over a few days.
- Some even develop rashes throughout the body and generally fall ill.
There is another stage of an extreme allergic reaction which is rare in people, but still possible. It is termed as anaphylactic shock or anaphylaxis. This happens within minutes of being exposed to PPD. This gives way to very severe symptoms such as feeling faint, wheezing, nausea, swollen parts of the face and body, itchy and raised skin rashes.
If such a situation presents itself for you or for someone you know, then the first thing to do will be to call a doctor. The person has to wash off their hair and scalp to remove the hair dye. Doctors will usually give an adrenaline injection followed by a prescription of steroid cream to be applied till the rashes subside.
How important is doing a patch test?
Many dermatologists and hair experts I know or consulted with, usually recommend doing a patch test before applying hair colourants on the hair. Patch tests are done in salons, clinical labs or even at home.
In case you opt for a home-done patch test, you just have to follow the instructions in the dye box and accordingly prepare a small pea-sized dye solution. This should be applied on the inner elbow or behind the ears till dry. If you develop any irritation or feel unwell after this patch test, better not to use that product. Even if it is a mild reaction, it is better to avoid that hair dye product and in general, products with PPD.
Taking the PPD-free route
I feel that it is any day better to do some research, read reviews, and choose your hair colourants wisely. It is the best way to avoid the difficulties that arise due to the presence of PPD and PTD. As per a study published in 2017, 57% allergic to PPD were able to tolerate hair dyes that are PPD-free and use para-toluene diamine sulfate (PTDS) instead.
What you can and should do
- Restrict your use of PPD-based hair dyes and move on to PPD-free hair dyes. It is the best practical solution. There are PPD-free hair dyes available in the market. I use one such hair colour product which has worked well for me for some time now.
- Avoid potentially cross-reacting dyes and vegetable-based hair dyes.
- Use gloves while applying hair dyes to prevent contact with hands.
- Restrict applying the hair colour to your scalp and apply petroleum jelly around your hairline.
I’ll conclude by saying that the industry will continue to have products that contain PPD. But, as consumers, we should be more alert and stay away from PPD-based products and avoid risks.
